Gwylo Review
By Bloss McClelland
Another Reason to Try and Score the Bar Seats
There’s no set recipe for success, but for a great meal? Start with something raw and a negroni.
Trust me, whether you’re going solo or taking someone along, try to score the bar seat. Forever my favourite spot to sit in a venue, and Gwylo’s bar seats are no exception.
If Mollymook’s laid-back beach scene had a sexy, flavour-loving alter ego, it would be Gwylo. Just off the sand dunes, this neon-lit, high-energy hotspot is throwing down some of the boldest, brightest plates on the South Coast. Chef Matt Upson (of Tallwood fame) has created a menu that’s part street food love letter, part playful culinary remix, and nothing short of addictive. Gwylo’s Manager Haley Mees has created an environment so welcoming, you feel like you’re walking into your favourite older cousin’s cool apartment on Christmas Eve.
The vibe is electric: low lights, big sounds, and an open kitchen dishing up brilliance. Think Melbourne’s best laneway experiences, but with a moment of dusting off sandy feet and shaking out salty hair. The staff are cool without the coolness being a performance; they know exactly what’s what, and they’ll help you find your meal groove fast.
So, in keeping with the successful dining rule, “a strawberry negroni please!” And what a pleasure it was, mellowed bitter edges with a hit of sweet, jammy fruit. Being on the coast, it would be a shock not to find delicious seafood on the menu, so a plate of sashimi is ticking the boxes; punchy finger lime and plum made for a mouth-watering moment dressed over local tuna.
““Where Melbourne laneways meet Mollymook sand — loud, spicy, unforgettable.””
Gwylo’s menu is built to share—truly the best way to dine. Starting off with perfectly hibachi-grilled squid with crunchy green pawpaw, bright pomelo, and fragrant herbs. Closely followed by spiced potato potstickers with a pop of black vinegar and moreish fried saltbush.
Now, you might skim over the hibachi-grilled cabbage. Do not do this. It’s a plate you never want to be over and potentially, the exception to the sharing rule. Pumpkin seed, miso, furikake, and smoke from the hibachi create an absolute wonder of a vegetable dish.
A surprise standout? The jicama salad. Crisp, juicy jicama (think if an apple and a cucumber had a very refreshing baby) is tossed with mint, coriander, radish, and a mouth-watering sesame dressing. It’s bright, fresh, and the perfect palate cleanser between bolder plates.
But the real showstopper? The tea-smoked Peking duck. With BBQ gai lan, it’s smoky, rich, and cooked just pink. This dish walks the line between delicate and decadent. Served with an aromatic duck stock and burnt shallot, it’s the kind of plate that stops conversation mid-sentence.
For dessert, the semifreddo with chocolate strawberry, shiso, and ginger is the final flex. Creamy, bitter dark chocolate is lifted by herbaceous shiso and zingy gingered strawberries—a modern combination that absolutely sings.
Now let’s talk cocktails. While their Remedies are absolutely smashable, they nail the classics too. Finding a perfectly made daiquiri is harder than you think, but not here.
The Southerly brings South Coast holiday vibes with a punchy drop of mint oil and orange bitters that reminds you of exactly that—the 5pm southerly.
The Pho King Gimlet, served up and in a glass bowl, had us saying “ah, that’s clever” on repeat. Pho-spiced infused gin dressed with Thai basil and chilli. Clever and delicious.
Gwylo doesn’t just serve food and drinks—it serves an experience. It’s loud, spicy, unexpected, and totally unforgettable.
